How to make cheddar cheese

The recipe for cheddar cheese was developed in the west of England four centuries ago as a way of reducing contamination in local cheeses. The name 'cheddar' comes from Cheddar Gorge, where the cheeses were ripened. If you're interested in trying your hand at this ancient process, read on.

1. To make a cheese of about one kilogram (roughly two pounds), bring 10 litres (10 quarts) of whole pasteurized milk to a setting temperature of around 32°C (90°F) and add 200 millilitres (just under one cup) of starter, prepared to the supplier's directions.
2. Mix in well. (Alternatively, add 250 millilitres, or one cup, of freshly made cultured buttermilk to 10 litres, or 10 quarts, of milk, allow the mixture to coagulate overnight, then gently heat it in a double boiler to the setting temperature of 32°C (90°F)).
3. Next, dilute about six to ten millilitres (one and a quarter to two teaspoons) of rennet in 25 to 50 millilitres (1/8 to 1/4 of a cup) of cool boiled water and add immediately to the milk.
4. Mix for one to three minutes and leave to coagulate undisturbed.
5. When the milk has curdled (30 to 45 minutes), cut the curds into one centimetre (1/2 inch) cubes, let stand for 5 to 10 minutes, then stir with a wooden spoon while gradually heating them to 38°C (100°F) — this should take 40 to 45 minutes.
6. Continue cooking and stirring until a piece of cooled curd maintains its shape when squeezed. If it crumbles, it needs more cooking.

1. Drain the curds for a few minutes and rinse out the double boiler, then return the curds to the saucepan for 'cheddaring'.
2. The temperature should be maintained at 34 to 36°C (93 to 97°F), and the curd mass should be turned every 15 minutes until the curds form one solid mass. The curds should be cheddared for at least two hours, and longer for a stronger flavour.
3. After cheddaring, cut the curd mass into cubes and gradually mix in 15 to 30 millilitres (one or two tablespoons) of salt, being careful not to bruise the curds.
4. Let the curds stand for 10 minutes, put into a cheesecloth and press under an eight kilogram (18 pound) weight for 10 minutes, then 16 kilograms (35 pounds) for an hour.
5. Remove cheese from the press, unwrap it, dip in warm water and fill in and smooth off any cracks or unevenness in the cheese.
6. Rewrap the cheese in clean cheesecloth and press with a 20 kilogram (44 pound) weight for 24 hours; then remove from the press and let the cheese dry for four to five days in a cool, airy location.
7. Turn the cheese twice a day during this period and wipe it dry each time with a clean cloth.
8. When a hard, dry skin has formed, rub it with oil or seal it with wax.
9. Cheddar can be eaten after three months but is best if aged for at least six months. It takes more than a year for the flavours of vintage cheddar to develop.

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